Description
Lead time (mentioned in the listing above “add to cart” button) means time it takes to prepare this order. Product in stock does not mean its ready to send out, it means it can be prepared in the lead time mentioned.
About this Kit
Complete Kit: Everything you need is included—just add water and follow the simple instructions.
This kit uses a special Master’s Mix—a blend of sawdust, soy pellets, and water. It’s inoculated with about 300 grams of organic rye or millet grain spawn to give your mushrooms the best start.
We keep things simple and affordable by sending you a fresh, made-to-order bag, just like real mushroom farms use. No fancy boxes, no sitting in cold storage for weeks. This helps keep your cost down by $10; we pass that saving directly to you. We call these kits ‘almost ready to fruit’.
Humidity: Keep high humidity during pinning and fruiting (≈85–95% RH) to ensure firm, well-formed caps.
Light: Indirect ambient light is sufficient — a regular day/night cycle helps cap formation and colour.
Air: Provide gentle fresh-air exchange (avoid CO₂ buildup) once pins form — balanced FAE prevents long stems and encourages compact caps.
Storage: Unopened kits keep a few weeks in a cool, dark place; yields may decline if stored too long.
Native Pearl Giant Oyster (Pleurotus ostreatus sapidus) — Notes & Why it’s Special
The Pearl Giant Oyster (sapidus) is a large, productive Pleurotus ostreatus variant prized for its tolerance of warmer fruiting windows and its attractive, dense fan-like clusters. It fruits reliably on a wide range of substrates (hardwood sawdust, wheat/rice straw, sugarcane bagasse, or supplemented mixes) — substrate choice and supplement level strongly affect yield and speed.
Pearl Giant oysters have a mild, slightly sweet flavour and a meaty texture that works well in sautés, soups and stir-fries. They are fast growers and great for both beginners and small-scale producers.
Step-by-step Instructions & Post-Harvest Care
IMPORTANT- Check the fruiting temperature when you buy a kit and ensure you can provide it with the temperature it needs (20–30°C for this Pearl Giant strain).
Step 1 – Let It Grow (3 Weeks)
*Take the bag out of its packaging and remove the tape holding the folded bag.
*Stand it upright so the white filter patch is unrestricted on the top, this is where the mycelium in the bag breathes from. Do not cut the bag for fruiting yet.
Please keep it away from direct sunlight, windows, fans, AC, or a wardrobe.
Let it sit like this for 3 whole weeks from the inoculation date on the label.
💡 Tip for First-Timers: Pearl Giant spawn-run is often rapid at warmer incubation temps (many growers incubate around 24–28°C), but only trigger fruiting when colonisation is advanced and uniform to avoid contamination.
Need to Wait? If you’re not ready to start fruiting after the 3 weeks, you can store the bag in the fridge for up to a month. Do not store it in the fridge until the bag is fully colonised.
Step 2 – Time to Fruit
After colonisation is mature, induce fruiting by exposing the block, increasing humidity, and providing gentle fresh air exchange.
Follow these steps:
1. Cut / Expose: Lay the bag on its side and make the recommended opening (an “X” or line) where the block meets the plastic. Gently push out the air and tuck the loose plastic underneath. For outdoor logs/blocks, exposing the inoculated surface or placing in a shaded, humid spot can trigger pinning.
2. Humidity & Mist: Maintain ~85–95% humidity; mist the exposed area 2–3 times daily or use a humidifier/fruiting chamber to keep RH steady. Avoid heavy pooling of water.
3. Harvest: Pins can appear within days at warm fruiting temps; harvest by cutting at the base when caps reach desired size. Expect multiple flushes from a well-managed block.
Common Mistakes to avoid
Temperature outside the ideal window: Fruiting too cool or too hot for this strain reduces yields or causes poor morphology — aim for 20–30°C during fruiting.
Humidity swings: Sudden drops or heavy condensation pooling harm pins — keep RH steady.
Poor fresh-air exchange: Too little FAE gives long, thin stems; too much direct draft dries the block. Balance FAE after pins form.
Poor substrate or supplementation: Inappropriate substrate or under/over supplementation reduces yields — use recommended hardwood sawdust or proven straw mixes.
What to do if pins form inside the bag:
Don’t worry. Just ignore the internal pins. Gently fold the top of the bag to push out excess air, cut a small “X” in the side of the bag (where you want the mushrooms to grow), and begin misting that spot daily. Mushrooms will start fruiting from that cut. The internal pins will eventually be aborted naturally, as they don’t have space to grow.
Checkout out our fine Misting Spray Bottle to produce tiny droplets and keep humidity high. The size of droplets formed can easily be evaporated , this constant evaporation signals mycelium to pin.
Want to Learn More?
This kit introduces you to Stage 3: Fruiting, the final step in mushroom growing.
To explore all three stages (including how mushrooms grow from spores to harvest), check out our
Educational Mushroom Growing Kit.
Checkout all the Mushroom Growing kits Available in Our Spray and grow 3 Kg range.
Could not fruit the bag, or was it contaminated? Send us a photo or call us, and we will help you resolve the issue.
